Beginners: by Jim Bertrand

In the Beginning (Part 1)

So you've decided that the world of Exhibition Budgerigars is the hobby for you. What's the next step? How do you make the transition between deciding to venture into this hobby and actually starting the procedure? The first installment of WCBA's Beginner's Page will consist of an overview to illustrate the terrific challenges you'll encounter in an attempt to establish a stud of top rate Exhibition Budgerigars and also some tips on how to avoid common mistakes that experience has taught those of us already past the initial stages.

I consider the Exhibition Budgerigar to be a living art form where the show cage is your display case, genetics the sculpting tool and you, the artist, creating a living sculpture based on your ability to perceive form and style.

Two examples come to mind to illustrate this point. My musician/artist brother was visiting one day and asked me why I was involved in this "bird thing". I seized the opportunity to "trap" him in the aviary explaining the finer points of the exhibition Budgerigar. He left the bird room with the revelation that whatever artistic talent I had inherited from both parents was being used the create these living sculptures.

Jim Marshall who is a commercial artist and a very knowledgeable and devoted Champion Budgerigar breeder is another example. For years he has done artwork for the WCBA for various occasions. He has drawn many caricatures of the Exhibition Budgerigar and, upon a visit to his aviary, a trained eye will recognize a startling resemblance between his artwork and his birds.

At this point you may be wondering if I am suggesting that you have to be an artist to be a successful breeder. If knowing how to recognize style and form (plus other finer details) and possessing the ability to genetically transpose these traits on a living subject can be included in a definition of the word "artist" then I suppose I am saying that it is very important that you acquire this skill. Most of us have to work hard at developing this skill. Understanding the finer points between a bird capable of being a show winner and just an average specimen is critical and you begin this procedure by attending shows, visiting experienced and knowledgeable breeders and asking lots of questions..This process is called "developing an eye".

Two very important assets when venturing into this hobby, (1) patience and (2) the desire to acquire knowledge. A haphazard approach will yield haphazard results. Lack of preparation in establishing a firm foundation is a major contributor to the list of reasons why individuals fall out of this pastime. We live in an age where quick results are demanded. The attention to detail, the necessity for keen observation may be too much for those who expect to immediately produce "world beaters". It rarely happens and , when it does, the success is usually short-lived.

To make this hobby enjoyable you should establish a firm grasp on all aspects of budgerigar rearing. There are many highs and lows along the way and being able to cope with unexpected obstacles requires that you do your homework. You will be able to create some shortcuts by learning from the mistakes made in the past by others. But you will make mistakes the severity of which may depend on you preparedness.

There are those who have deep pockets and can afford a lavish aviary and fill it with high quality stock, then we have the rest of us who must start meagerly and build up. Remember you can't buy experience (unless you can afford to hire an aviary manager.....and what's the fun in that?).

So after you have completed the investigatory stage and have decided that this is indeed the hobby for you...what next? The first step will be design and construction of housing facilities. That will be for the next installment ... I'll leave you with a few thoughts.

Good idea to start small but have provisions for expansion because it may not be too long that you'll be lamenting the lack of space in your current establishment. Find as many designs as you are able and visit aviaries and take notes. Make sure that the design you are considering is comfortable for both yourself and the birds.

Until next time, if you have questions I'll be happy to attempt an answer. Email me at.... rainfst@attglobal.net Jim.

In the Beginning (Part 2)

This will not be a technical effort for a few reasons. Certain factors dictate the type of design to be used in aviary construction. First is climate: Obviously the more severe the climate, the more protection from the harsh elements is required. Second is location of the aviary: Many aviaries are created out of whatever happens to be easily available. Some will use an existing outbuilding(like a garden shed), part of a basement, a closed in carport (like myself), a spare room of the house, and finally, a building designed specifically for housing the birds. Third is size of the structure: With the exception of building a new structure, what you have available for use will dictate the size of the aviary (at the end of part 1 I mentioned it would be wise to have a contingency plan for expansion and I adhere to that even if it means moving out of a limited area and constructing a larger facility). Some of us are perfectly content with an 8'X10' garden shed with a few flights attached but many who start out in that situation, after a successful breeding season or two, are thinking expansion.

The floor plan of your bird room should be well thought out. There are many publications that describe aviary floor plans. Combine studying these designs with visiting local aviaries and you will develop a plan that both appeals to you and fits the area you have to work with.

A major concern about aviary design and size that I cannot over emphasize enough is DO NOT OVERCROWD YOUR BIRDS. If you want to run into all sorts of behavioral and health related problems, overcrowding is the perfect beginning. This is not normally a concern for someone just starting but, in a small aviary, it can quickly become troublesome. When the population density is too high, it brings on stress in the whole flock, , which is a precursor to many ailments and disease. When visiting aviaries see if you can feel the difference in comfort zones between one that is overcrowded and one that maintains a proper population for the size of the structure and the amount of perch space. And yes, you can have a small aviary without creating a cluttered situation.

When studying floor plans, look for ideas that are maintenance-saving and efficient. There is a difference between an enjoyable hobby and extra work I'm sure you don't need. For example, the difference between having an automatic(or semi-automatic like mine)drinking system instead of the open fount-type, is both time-saving and more hygienic. How you situate your flights, breeding cages and holding/training cages can affect the length of time spent on the daily routines of cleaning and feeding. I spend a lot of time observing the birds. While I'm doing this I'm assessing young developing birds, contemplating future matings, watching behavior etc. If that time is lost because I have too many breeding cages to attend or my aviary design is labor intensive, I lose that valuable time spent on what I consider to be the most rewarding part of the hobby and fun becomes work.

So you've decided on a floor plan for your flights, breeding cages etc., the next step is to decide on what amenities will be used. These can include lighting(and timers), fans for air circulation, an ionizer for air purification, heat(for colder climates), humidifiers, plumbing(if no close by existing facilities are available), automatic drinking system.....the list goes on.

Good air circulation is very important for the overall health of the stock. Airborne dust particles can be harmful to both birds and humans unless continually extracted from the area. Not only can the dust itself be harmful but also the molds, bacteria and other nasty bugs hitching a ride on the dust particles.

An ionizer can be integrated into your air exchange system. Ionizers electrically charge airborne dust particles making them heavier than air and thus dropping them to the ground for cleanup. Units can be as simple as an ion generator that screws into a light socket to a sophisticated ionized air conditioning system. I've been in aviaries where I just couldn't wait to get out because of the suffocating atmosphere due to overcrowding, poor husbandry and poor air circulation. Just remember that this type of condition is not fit for man or beast.

While I'm on the topic of unhealthy situations, it is also imperative that you make your establishment rodent proof. I've heard many horror stories about vermin getting into the bird room and/or the feed storage area and creating havoc. A concrete foundation is a good deterrent but if that is not possible, metal stripping or fine mesh will also work. Look for places that you believe they could possibly chew their way through(and they are quite adept at finding weaknesses in the fortification)and take steps to guard against this possibility.

Lighting is another important consideration especially if you decide to have the breeding season during the winter months. Many breed their birds according to the band issue dates which, in most cases, means during the winter(in the northern hemisphere). By extending the photo period inside the aviary we are creating an artificial spring. These lights are usually wired into timers that automatically turn lights on and shut them off at set times. A low wattage night light is also part of the lighting system. Whenever birds suffer "night fright" these lights give off just enough illumination so the frightened birds can find their way back to a perching spot.

Now on to heat and humidity. Again, in most areas of the northern hemisphere, if your breeding pairs are producing during the winter months, the aviary should be heated. If not you'll find that either the hens will rarely come out of the nest box for fear of the eggs being chilled or they stay out of the box for a usually normal amount of time but, because of the cold temperatures the eggs do get chilled. Also much of the pairs' energy is spent trying to stay warm instead of nourishing their offspring. I find approximately 50F a comfortable temperature for both the birds and myself. Of the various types of heaters, the ones I prefer are the oil-filled radiant variety. I do not like the forced air open element heaters because of the dust and in no way should gas or kerosene heaters be used.

The one problem with artificial heat is the tendency to extract moisture from the air and this is particularly bad on those very cold but dry winter days. A humidifier will replace lost moisture and it can be anything from a pan of water sitting near the heater to a humidifier with an electronic humidistat to automatically control moisture in the air. About 60% humidity is adequate and you must be careful not to overdue the moisture and create a whole new mold/mildew problem.

Plumbing(and electrical installation), if not already supplied in an existing structure, would have to be included in the initial planning stages. Again for a time saving factor, it is much more convenient to have a sink for cleaning utensils etc., if not in the aviary, then at least in reasonable proximity.

Plan for comfort. Comfort for yourself and the birds. Make your daily routine in the aviary a pleasure; a place where you can cast off all the perplexities of the world outside. Careful planning will ensure this.

Many items in this topic can be full articles by themselves but for the sake of squeezing in a bunch of issues that are aviary construction related, I had to be brief . Any questions feel free to email me and I will attempt to answer them.

Jim Bertrand. rainfst@attglobal.net